Maritime History of the Great Lakes

Marine Review (Cleveland, OH), 10 Sep 1896, p. 13

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MARINE REVIEW. 13 On a Voyage to High Latitudes. Editor Marine Review:--No doubt some of your readers have heard of a pair of elegant, low-pressure, upper cabin, side-wheel steam- ships that have attracted some attention on Her Majesty's side of the rivers, while passing from Lake Hrie to the icy regions of the "Soo."' There are men in the steamboat business who say that a couple of good steamers in this part of the Dominion coasting trade would make money, but the service is cheap and I am not dictating to the present management. I have simply jotted down a few notes about the trip and the boat on which I took passage. Her advertised time of departure was 2:30 p. m., sharp; con- sequently it was exactly 4:30 when the mate stamped on the hurricane deck and yelled "Leggo!" to the deck hands, who were at that precise moment taking a nod in the two or three easy chairs thoughtfully pro- vided for passengers, the aforesaid passengers standing patiently wait- ing till forty-three of them could get a whack at the said chairs, After two or three preliminary semi-revolutions the ponderous machinery slowly got under way. The purser raised the window of his office and began to apportion among the passengers, lined up in front of it, the least number of rooms amongst the greatest possible number of passengers. Those who had been there before lined up at once, while those who wanted to make an impression waited to mount their yachting caps, wraps and field glasses, and got left. A stop of a few minutes was made at Walkerville and divers barrels and packages of concentrated hilarity taken aboard, after which things seemed to go much more smoothly. Some said they did not see why such stuff was necessary on a pleasure trip, but they probably lacked experience jn such matters. No excursion was ever known to be a howling suc- cess without it. On Lake St. Clair a good view was had of the sunken steamers Oceanica and Chisholm. The man who knows it all told all about it. Anybody could see that the Chisholm was on the wrong side of the channel. If he had carried his wheel hard-a-port coming down, he never would have touched the other fellow at all. In four hours after passing Walkerville we had arrived at the St. Clair canal, and towards morning we were at the head of the river. It was learned here that some one had said that it had been blowing on Lake Huron two or three days before, and like a careful man our skipper decided to wait and find out the truth abcut it. But before the report could be traced up an old lumber hooker came along, and her captain, evidently a desperately reckless fellow, never stopped to ask any questions but went on about his business. Seeing this our skipper said: "Well, if he can go out I can," and though some of the yachting caps and sailor clothes looked rather white in the face,he bravely mounted the bridge, buttoned up his coat, pulled his cap a point more nor-west, and we started out. Lake Huron did not look very much disturbed at our daring to venture ourselves upon it,though certainly our boat did seem a little uneasy. Most of the passengers seemed to be very tired, very few of them caring about getting up to breakfast. The cookery must have been very poor, because most of those who did come to break- fast seemed to have eaten something that disagreed with them. They did not, however, seem to bear any ill will towards anyone on that ac- count but freely gave it up again. In fact there seemed to bea sort of rivalry among them as to who could do the most in that direction. It was not sea-sickness, because all denied it, and one and all agreed that they had never experienced anything like it before. One man said that he was born in England, and had crossed the ocean four times, so he knew what he was talking about. I suggested that he must be mistaken, because if he had crossed four times he would now be on the other side. He said he would see me later and teach me to doubt a gentleman's word. I did not see him again, and I hope he did not feel badly about it. We reached Goderich about three in ee afternoon, having traveled from the head of the river in about nine hours. Gadenone is quite a nice quiet little town. Every street in it I believe leads to the town hall. I tried three or four and then quit. This and the absence of sidewalks seem to be the principal features, though I admit that I did afterwards hear one man say that Mackinac wasn't in it with Goder- ich for picturesque beauty. I don't know what part of the town he was in but if I go that way again I will try and find out. Our next stop was at Kincardine. The reception given us was en- thusiastic, if the number of people who turned out to see us was any evidence. It must have been for that, for there is certainly nothing else to see. But stop! I believe one of the principal attractions of this place is the sunset in the waters which under favorable conditions is never to be forgotten. business. Kincardine has a monopoly of the sunset At this point, as well as at Goderich, the Canadian goy- ernment has spent immense sums of money in harbor making, but after all the net-result is that there is about 11 feet of water in calm weather at each place. We made the run from Goderich to Kincar- dine in excellent time. The distance is thirty miles and we only con- sumed four hours in covering the entire distance. This, it will be seen at once, beats walking out of sight, and any one who grumbles at it is a kicker. It will probably be claimed that some of the old-time Lake Krie steamers could beat it but they are gone and not able to speak for themselves. Port Elgin was the next stop, where we arrived in due course. The other course is N. E. +S. We did not remain on deck to see this interesting and bustling town, taking it for granted that our folder had it all "dead to rights."' In the morning we were abreast of Cove island, just outside of To- bermoray, and our minds went back to the pleasant days in "auld lang syne," spent knocking about these waters with Commander "Ted"' Dunn, now of H. M. 8. Petrel, when the days and strings of fish were long, and the nights and yarns were longer. "Ted" now "catches fishes in other men's dishes."? Passing Squaw island, where we and "Ted" once took part in a famous race between rival fleets of fishing boats, we arrived (after awhile) at Killarney. This thriving city (see folder) is named from its resemblance to the place of that name in Ireland. We all recognized the resemblance at once. This is mostly an "Injun" town and once boasted the name of Shebonuon- ing, which means "where am I at?' Several of the survivors of the once noble red men were seen posing gracefully about the door of the store. Among them we recognized Young-man-not-afraid-to-beat-his- wife, No-hair-on-his-face,Skitty-wa-boo and others. The principal business of Killarney is the fish industry. Tons of fresh fish are ship- ped daily from here, "but nothing compared at all with what we used to do." The trail of the serpent is over them all, even in this remote region. The largest fish I saw were suckers, and the celerity with which the dusky maiden in the booth on the dock skinned them was marvelous. They gave up their money for knick-nacks of alleged In- dian manufacture, confidently believing they had secured bargains. 'When all were Broke they were gathered aboard once more and we turned our backs on Killarney, and headed for Manitowaning, on the north side of Manitoulin island. This place the Indians called the home of the great spirit. Itis rightly named, because many of the barrels from Walkerville went ashore here. We also saw several bot- tled spirits coming aboard and which manifested themselves later in the evening. : Getting away from here we next touched at Little Current, also on the Manitoulin. The dusky damsel with the Indian work was also in evidence here but the crowd had already been touched. At the next stopping place we got off. We intend to take a slower boat going back, as the intense neryous strain was more than we could stand. There were some very pleasant features, however, connected with the trip. We liked the staterooms for one thing. It was impossible to overcrowd them, because two people could. not get in at once. We were also taught to guard against the sin of extravagance, by having the supply of towels carefully limited to one for each room for each day. Our room-mate, however, would not be instructed and persisted in using an extra supply which he brought with him. The ventilation, also, was carefully looked after by removing part of the glass from the window. The waiters did their best to make the trip enjoyable by mingling freely among the passengers and even occasionally chipping into the table conversation. So they were readily forgiven when they spilled the soup or forgot what they went after. The cooks, too, did not hide their light (or black) under a bushel, but with their pictur- esque caps, jackets and aprons, wandered about the cabin. Some reflections were cast upon the cleanliness of their uniforms but then some people are never satisfied. On the whole we felt very much sat- isfied with our trip and that we had a great deal we had not paid for. Sault Ste. Marie, Ont., Sept. 8, 1896. Malden. A number of vessel owners have given orders to the Review to photograph their vessels when passing in the Detriot river at a point where the atmosphere is clear, with no docks or other objectionable features in the back ground. We have stationed the best marine pho- tographer on the lakes on the river to fill these orders, We would be pleased to photograph your boat if you will wire or write us at once, The finished picture vrill be 11 by 14 inches, mounted on 14 by 17 inch ecards. One print $2, three prints $5.

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