Rounding Huron's Cape of Good Hope: Schooner Days MCLVIII (1158)

by C. H. J. Snider

Toronto-Manitoulin, 1868 - 7

STORMTOSSED on Lake Huron for two days between Goderich and Kincardine, and having carried away her fore gaff and lost her dinghy, the fore hatch and one oar, Wm. Cooper Campbell's little schooner yacht Ripple nevertheless swept into the new Bruce County fishing port after the best traditions of the Royal Canadian Yacht Club to which she belonged.

Her logbook for Saturday Aug. 8, 1868, continues:

"Kincardine, Aug. 8, Gale—

"Once inside we rounded to and came to anchor in fine style, the admiration of the fishermen and other bystanders.

Here we determined to stay, to look for our dinghy, which we expect would drift on shore, and to get a new gaff. It is a dull, quiet little place, but has made wonderful strides, being only ten years old. It is to be the terminus of the new railway and altogether promises to be a place of some importance. In the afternoon a party went off to look for our dinghy, but returned unsuccessful. After some trouble we at last found a man to make us a gaff and now we hope again to start on our way by Monday.

August 9, Sunday

Weather dull and gloomy

Wind: N.W. blowing a gale.

A quiet day after our tough work yesterday. We all duly went to church and heard a quiet sermon. In the afternoon we strolled up and down the beach, but could hear nothing of either the dinghy or the hatch, In the evening it began to rain and we were all glad to turn in early.

August 10, Monday

Weather dull

Wind: N.W. light.

We have at last got our gaff finished, and after dinner we started out taking with us three young friends from Kincardine, who were to return in their own boat. The wind was light and baffling, and we could scarcely make any headway. Some of the party went ashore to borrow a boat to take the place of the dinghy, but when they got her into the water she leaked so badly, they were obliged to leave her behind, and pull off again for the "Ripple", now a long way out, and with scarce wind enough to stretch in again.

Bidding adieu to our friends at 7 p.m., 6 miles from Kincardine, we stood on but got scarcely any breeze till midnight.

August 11, Tuesday

Weather fine in the morning and stormy at night

Distance to noon, 60 miles.

During the night a slight breeze sprung up from the N.E. veering round and gradually to the N.W. with a threatening sky. We stood on well into the lake catching three beautiful salmon trout. About noon the weather became dull so that we determined to stand into shore and shaped our course due East, making the land about the Fishing Islands.

These are about 45 miles NE of Kincardine, half way up to Cape Hurd.

The wind gradually freshened towards the afternoon but we continued to beat on up the shore until we sighted Cape Hurd about 5 p.m. Harder and harder came the wind, and reef after reef was taken in, until at 5:30 we were obliged to 'bout ship and run before it.

Once we endeavored to haul our wind and stand on again, but it was in vain, and not until 9.15 did we manage to heave her to, our intention having been to run for shelter into Southampton.

At 9:30 we lay to under close reefed mainsail and staysail and reefed foresail, slowing, forging ahead, and plunging and tossing on an angry sea. In three hours we had lost as much ground as had taken us twelve hours to make. Still we deemed it safest and best to err on the safe side, more especially with night setting in.

August 12, Wednesday

Weather Fine

Wind N.W.

Distance 65 Miles

At 2.15 a.m. we came about and stood on our course once more for Cape Hurd. The wind had now leveled somewhat, and gradually one reef after another was shaken out. There was still a heavy sea on, but we made good way, and by noon were again in sight of the redoubtable Cape. As it was yesterday, so again today. Towards the afternoon the wind rose and it blew quite a gale until we were again reduced to double reefed mainsail, reefed staysail and foresail.

The sea was running very high, and the wind was dead ahead. However we were now determined to double the Cape and we drove our good little vessel through it. At times the spray would fly right over her fore-masthead, and as she plunged we feared sometimes that she would carry away her jib-boom. All the cabin was topsy-turvy, nothing would stay on the seats, and it was hard work to get our meals cooked. Every one that could be below was there lying on the floor, while the hands on deck with waterproofs and oilskins made the best they could of it.

The fore hatch was battened down, the shutters on the cabin windows closed, the cabin gangway shut up, except occasionally to give a little air. But the good "Ripple" behaved well. She shipped very little water and with care gave us very little spray even, except when some huge billow would come thundering along.

About 5 p.m. we passed Cape Hurd, and the joyful sound was heard "Ease sheets!" and off she goes into the narrow channel for Tobermory, with Captain Waggoner at the fore crosstrees, pilot Blair on the weather rigging, and the Captain at the helm.

"Stand by to gybe."

"Let her come," and around she comes beautifully, into Tobermory Harbor, running up to the rocks, where we made her fast to the trees, keeping her off with poles lashed at the bow and stern.

This is a splendid harbor, with thirty feet of water close up to its rocky sides, sheltered on all sides, but wild and solitary. Not a living soul for many miles, except the lighthouse keeper and his family on Cove Island. Game there was none, and fish there was none, at least we could neither see the one nor catch the other. But after three days and two nights tossing about we were only too glad to rest our bones in peace for one night.