Raced to Church Yacht vs. Mackinaw: Schooner Days MCLX (1160)

by C. H. J. Snider

Toronto-Manitoulin, 1868 - No. 9

LOGBOOK of the schooner Yacht Ripple in Manitoulin waters on Saturday, Aug. 15, 1868, continues:

At noon we duly started for Wekwemikong, the principal Indian village on the Manitoulin Islands. An important Catholic festival is to be held on Sunday at which all the Indians for 50 miles or more will be present. We started down the channel and as soon as we cleared the point of George Island hauled up close to the wind. Just as we rounded the point a large Mackinaw boat, the fastest on the lake, rounded the other end about 2 miles to windward of us, trying to speed with us.

The breeze was fresh, and we dashed along at a great speed, making the distance in two hours. We cast anchor just opposite the church, and started to explore village, the largest on the Island. It bore a strong resemblance to all other Indian villages, a number of scattered houses all precisely of the same pattern, pitched away anywhere without regard to streets or any order whatever. The houses are like square shanties with a door in the middle and a window on each side. No trees except such as remained from the original bush, no garden, no cultivation.

ST. JOSEPH'S CROSS-CUT SAW

Outside the village a few fields of corn and potatoes are seen, but no cattle, a few sheep and pigs and abundance of dogs forming the four-footed part of the inhabitants. This village however boasts of a church, a convent, a priest's house, a chapel, a schoolhouse. The church is a substantial stone building outside, the inside being very gaudily decorated. Over the altar is a picture of the Indian receiving the Cross, outrageously out of proportion and perspective. Another painting represents the Holy Family with the Infant Jesus in a wooden cradle with wooden rockers, and the crosscut saw of Joseph standing against the wall near by. A few pale-looking Sisters occupy the Convent, but I could not learn that any squaws had been so far converted yet.

The village is situated on the side of a steep hill, and all along the foot of the hill are the camps and fires of the stranger Indians. Numerous boats line the beach, and dart to and fro, wondering who and what we are, and some adventurous fellows insisted on trading with us for flour, in spite of our protesting that we did not trade. Thinking money might be an inducement, he showed us a half dollar and was mightily disappointed that even that failed to excite our cupidity.

The weather looking threatening, we dropped our large anchor in case of danger and then retired to rest in comfort and peace.

INDIANS AT WORSHIP

August 16, Sunday

Weather Fine.

Wind: N.E.

At nine o'clock a boat came off from shore to take us to Church, but we decided to have our own service at 11, which accordingly took place, the Captain reading the prayers. We hoisted all our bunting, and the Indians were immensely pleased at our honoring their fete.

After dinner we went on shore and into the church, where were assembled about the whole Indian population. A native choir chanted the service with a peculiar shrill tone, and the responses were made by a number of boys and girls dressed in white and with wreaths of flowers around their heads, their swarthy faces and long black hair making a very strong contrast to their white dresses and wreaths of white and red roses. The young squaws occupied the right hand aisle of the church, the married ones the right centre, the young men the left and the older men the left centre, the chiefs having their seats of honor elevated above the rest on either side of the choir.

All the squaws wore their black shawls over their heads, and it was fortunate for some of them, as they did not seem abashed at performing maternal duties in the midst of the congregation.

As the service proceeded quantities of candles on long fancy colored sticks were distributed, banners were brought forth and the various parts of the congregation duly marshalled in procession.

Starting from the church they made a complete circuit of the village, stopping at three or four places where arches and a canopy were erected, a band of children in white gathering round and strewing flowers on the ground as the service was sung first by the male voices, and then by the children of the band.

At four o'clock the proceedings terminated by High Mass and the elevation of the Host in the church.

The appearance of the congregation was in general very respectable. The squaws presented every variety of shawl, the gayest colors being most notable. The men were plainly but a decently dressed, and the quiet orderly behavior of the whole even while listening to what they could not understand, would have put to shame many a white assembly.